Glossary of Leather Terms

Leather that is colored all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only the best quality hides can be used.

Leather that is dyed with one color over another (usually darker over lighter) so as to create rich highlights and an artificially aged appearance. It is also called distressed leather.

Leather tanned using tannins drawn from tree bark — a traditional form of vegetable tanning that gives the hide firmness, body and a warm natural tone.

Bonded, reconstituted leather or blended leather is a pulp made from shredded leather and a polyurethane coating, which is embossed with a leather-like texture. It is an economical material that uses leftover organic leather (from tanneries or workshops) that are shredded and bonded together with polyurethane or latex on to a fiber sheet

Process used to minimize surface imperfections, creates a more uniform skin appearance.

Leather that has been buffed to remove blemishes, then covered with a new, artificial grain created using pigments and other finishes.

Removing the crock, or excess coloring, that rubs off of a newly-dyed hide

Leather which has been tanned (treated to become nonperishable) but not colored or otherwise finished.

The process of coloring leather by tumbling it in a rotating drum immersed in dye. This is a very effective method of allowing maximum dye penetration.

Leather that has been “stamped” with a design or artificial texture under very high pressure. It is used, for example, to create imitation alligator hide.

A variety of materials that have been made to resemble leather. The great bulk of these are vinyl, rubber or plastic-coated fabrics.

Any enhancing effect applied to leather after it has been tanned. Examples are dyeing, embossing, buffing, antiquing, waxing, waterproofing, and so on.

Leather that has not been altered beyond hair removal. Full grain leather is the most genuine type of leather, as it retains all of the original texture and markings of the original hide.

Aniline-dyed leather, which has been polished to a high luster by passing through glass or steel rollers under great pressure.

Lambskin or other very soft leather typically used for gloves.

A word used to describe the natural characteristics of an unprocessed hide, such as its pores, wrinkles, markings, and texture.

Leather tanned without removing the hair from the skin or hide.

A word used to describe the feel (i.e. softness or fullness) of leather.

Heavyweight vegetable-tanned leather used for sole, belting, strap and mechanical leathers made from unsplit cattle hides

Lightweight Leather used for shoes, wallets, bags, and bookbinding and much more. These leathers include Swine, Sheep, Lamb, Cow, Goat, or suede.

Process in which tanned hides are tumbled in rotating drums using a combination of heat and a misting of water to soften the hand or enhance the grain.

Leather with no surface impregnated treatment of finish other than dye matter, which might mask or alter the natural state of the leather. Usually reserved for the finest quality skins.

Describes the soft, “fuzzy” effect achieved in leather by buffing or brushing.

Leather that displays its original grain.

Top Grain Leather whose surface has been buffed and brushed to create a soft, velvety effect. It differs from suede in that suede is created from the flesh (inner) side of a hide, while nubuck is created using the grain (outer) side, giving it added strength and durability.

Leather that is tanned using oils to create a very soft, pliable finish.

Leather with a glossy impermeable finish produced by successive coats of drying oils, varnish, or synthetic resins.

The aura or luster that develops in a quality piece of leather with age.

A raw skin with the hair. Usually refers to fur animals.

Leather in which a pattern of small holes is stamped using a die.

Leather that has been coated with a flat surface color on top of or instead of the usual dye finish. The leather is usually pigmented to add durability and hide natural blemishes.

The process of pressing leather under a heated plate. Often used in upholstery leather to mask imperfections.

Describes the behavior of leather that has been treated with oils, waxes, and dyes in such a way that when the leather is pulled or stretched the finish becomes lighter in the stretched areas. It is considered a mark of high quality.

A second finish added over an underlying tannage.

Aniline leather to which a matching pigment layer is added to even out the color and add protection.

The thickest part of the hide from the shoulder area of the cow.

A full, natural-grain leather, which is shrunken to enlarge and enhance the grain of the leather.

Leather made from one-half, or “side,” of a full hide. Typically refers to leather whose top grain (outermost layer) has been left intact.

The grain surface is abraded with brushes, emery wheel or sandpaper. Leather is snuffed for purpose of removing defective grain, or for sueding the surface of the leather.

Leather made from the lower (inner or flesh side) layers of a hide that have been split away from the upper, or grain, layers. Split leather is more fragile than side leather or full-grain leather, and is typically used in the form of suede.

Split leather that has been buffed and brushed to create a fuzzy surface feel.

Leather whose top (outermost) layers have been left intact, in contrast to split leather.

An effect created by applying layers of similar or contrasting dyes to a piece of leather in order to create a mottled or aged appearance. Antiqued and Savage leathers are examples of two-tone leathers.

Is used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags. The leather is left untreated, is therefore susceptible to water, and stains. Sunlight makes the natural leather darken in shade (develop a patina).

A method of hide tanning which utilizes materials from organic materials such as bark instead of the traditional chemicals. Vegetable tanned leather has greater body and firmness than traditionally tanned leather.

A term, which describes the heaviness or thickness of leather. This is typically given in ounces per square foot or millimeters (thickness).

Refers to leather created using a full hide, as opposed to a side, which averages 45-55 square feet.